Wednesday 9 January 2013

Step Out of Christmas...

So, how was it for you, she asked a week later than everyone else. You could say I hit the ground running a little last week in the great Return to Normality - perhaps it's not so surprising that the week following Christmas and New Year is always one of the busiest in the Therapist's Diary, as people need to disgorge the emotional impact of too much booze, spending, anticlimax, and enforced family time. Of course I'm not immune from any of it myself. There'll be whole post coming up about my own Annual Family Row later, just so you can see that we therapists basically have no answers whatsoever to deep-rooted family discord (not our own, anyway. I could sort out yours in a flash though.).

Given my own longstanding dislike of Christmas and New Year, we resolved this year to play it all down again, which more or less works, and to sneak off somewhere else for a couple of days in that 'dead' period in between, when everyone seems to sit around snacking fitfully on leftover Stilton, fretting about not being at the gym while simultaneously feeling too lethargic to drag themselves over there. We got on the Eurotunnel instead, very early on the 27th, and we headed for...Belgium!

Belgian culture is much-maligned, but I've been there several times now and always had a blast. As well as being the place that spawned Eddie Merckx, Jacques Brel and Plastic Bertrand, it also nursed the baby Bradley Wiggins, who was born there. The food is good and hearty, the beers are among the best in the world, and the language is comically impenetrable to the Anglophone ear, despite so many of the words being similar. And it's a great country for little cities.

We've been to pretty, chocolate-box Bruges a couple of times, so this time we headed on up the road to its larger neighbour and cultural rival, Ghent. Ghent views Bruges as a fey fop of a little brother, while seeing itself as more sturdy, robust, and practical. Which it very much is - it's a very handsome, less manicured, busy working city. And it takes the prize for being the friendliest place I've ever been to in Europe, which I certainly hadn't expected. In every bar we entered, we'd get a 'hello' from any locals packed round tables or choosing their selection from the 280 offerings on the beer menus. Shop staff were smiley and helpful, restaurant staff were relaxed, amiable and personable. In a town which gets its fair share of tourists, they certainly weren't fatigued, irritated or indifferent to us. People wanted to know where we'd come from, how things 'are' there, and how we liked their city. There was real civic pride around, but no sense at all of preciousness or smugness. The good humour and good will were striking.

We spent two days just happily wandering the cobbled streets with their gabled Flemish merchants' houses, crossing and crisscrossing the canals that lace the city together, and didn't even get to the huge museum quarter on the Northern edge of town, as we were having such a good time and wanted to leave ourselves something for when we go back, which we'll definitely be doing. There's a certain bar where I lost my heart to a terrier called Juliet, for a start.

We brought back beer, Rhubarb gin, and fresh advocaat - a delicious semi-solid, lightly alcoholic custard which I'll be making trifle from this weekend. It all seemed suitably quirky and idiosyncratic. Belgium hasn't had a functioning government for nearly two years now. And it seems to be doing absolutely fine on the back of it.


14 comments:

  1. I love Belgium and our Belgian chums. Clean, neat, friendly - the food is some of the best nosh I've had abroad - the cakes, waffles, sausages - the amazon Trappist ales and national dishes Waterzooi (and the beefier version, whose name I've forgotten) I seem to remember Ghent for a run of ice cream parlours north of the bridge.

    Did you do the castle, tell me you did the castle?

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  2. My one and only memory of Belgium is being in a train station contemplating a display of counterfeit currency.

    We have, blessedly, been able to avoid family nonsense during Christmas. One, after the Boy showed up we made it clear we weren't traveling for Christmas.

    The second step was a little more complicated but basically we gave the main culprit enough rope to hang herself with. She hasn't stopped sending loads of plastic crap as presents for the Boy but, she doesn't even call anymore.

    Not picturesque but pleasant enough.

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  3. I've been to Ghent, but not since 1980. I remember we stayed in this bizarre hotel, really thin, and with only a sailor at the bar as we arrived late at night. The owner was like Mrs Meers from Thoroughly Modern Milly, and as she showed us to our shockingly uncomfortable rooms it all seemed like we wouldn't be making it out alive.

    We did of course, but sometimes I wonder if it was some sort of timeslip. It all seemed amazingly old-fashioned, like something out of the Forties. Great town though.

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  4. It sounds brilliant, I'd love to go. Belgium has this odd reputation of being boring, doesn't it? - but I wonder if for that reason it just gets left alone and to its own devices and in fact that's why it's actually as nice as it is?! I'm certainly happiest when left alone and to my own devices, that's for sure!

    I'm totally with you on the playing down kind of Christmas and once again was lucky enough to be able to do that this year. Sorry to hear about your 'Annual Family Row', though - however I confess that I do look forward to reading about it!

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  5. I love Belgium. I went first to Ghent about ten years ago with Kirsty, and remember lots of wallpaper shops and a brilliant bar (amongst too many to remember) near a big square where farmer types drank beer before noon; then last year I did a show in Brussels, which I also loved. I'd go back tomorrow.

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  6. Hoorah for Belgium! It's the little Northern European nook that unites us all. Unlike Christmas. Let's annexe it!

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  7. Can I have some of that trifle please?

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  8. Well, no. I'm going to need to eat all of it.

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  9. Only ever been to Belgium on business but liked it as a place none the less. Found the people friendly and the cities clean and good to look about.

    My brother for many years made Brussels his destination of choice for his Christmas celebrations - since his divorce he's never wanted to spend Christmas at home and now happily remarried his new wife liked his approach... I think her family have an annual major row during Christmas so she is happy to find a reason not to be there!

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    1. I'm 100% with your sister-in-law, F'Ron. My most recent post may illustrate why!

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  10. Haven't been to Belgium (yet) but have taken quite a shining to Lindemans Kriek (cherry flavoured beer) which I first savoured in Hungary. I rather fancy the idea of a country that has legal euthanasia as well.
    It's been great catching up on your blog. Sadly, this shit-hole (Lagos) has knocked any form of creativity out of me & my blog has suffered. *sigh*

    Jayne (withawhy)

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    1. Good to know you're still around, Jayne, but really sorry to hear you've been struggling over there. I HAD wondered how it was going for you both. Any end in sight? Hope it won't be too much longer. x

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    2. No, not much longer.........we're out of here the 1st week in April. There aren't enough words to describe just how much I loathe this hateful country. Not sure what the future holds, but it'll include lots of riding the new HD trike (finally, mummy gets her training wheels!) either across Europe or the USA. Inspiration for a new blog in the future methinks :-)

      Best wishes
      Jayne

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    3. I'm really glad to hear that. It must be grim if it's finally managed to knock the fizz out of you - you've always been so adaptable. Keep your mind on the future, the road, and that trike. Only weeks left now.

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